Visit the charming harbour of Laem Ngop and, if you have time, the nearby Naval Memorial Museum. You will not be dissatisfied. Most people that visit Laem Ngop do so just to get an extension on their visa (small Immigration Office) and then head back out again but this sleepy town is worth a night’s stay. The people are so friendly and the food is amazing, especially the seafood. There are not many hotels but some can be found on Agoda and Booking.com.
Black Sands Beach, Laem Ngop
The Black Sands Beach in Laem Ngop, about a 20-minute drive from Trat, is well worth a visit. We were welcomed by a fairly depressing Trat sign, but the path to the Black Sands was clear. We just started following the concrete paths out into the Mangrove forest because it was deserted. The intricate rooting system of mangrove trees and how they survive is fascinating to observe. The ability of such flora to thrive in such dark, brackish water so near to the sea is a monument to their evolution in dealing with saltwater, wave action, and low oxygen levels in wet mud. It’s a pleasant walk out, and there are two or three resting places, indicating that the area was once a major tourist destination. Take some time to wander around the mangroves and appreciate how vital they are as an ecosystem for storing carbon, making them a crucial element of the fight against climate change. The tide was in, so arriving at the ‘beach’ was a bit of an anti-climax! There are, however, (quite rickety) elevated platforms over the sea from which small amounts of black sand can be seen. When the tide goes out, I suppose there will be more black sand to view!
On a clear day, the views from here must be spectacular, and there is a watchtower where you may climb to get a view of Koh Chang. The Black Sand is supposed to have healing characteristics, and the sign describes how to build a Foot Spa, a Black Sand Scrub, and a Full Body Spa in which you spend 30 minutes immersed in the black sand. Although assistance may be available, this appears to be a self-serve situation. We were happy for the safety of the concrete pathways because being alone in such a large area of Mangrove felt unsettling but the wooden walkways are in terrible condition probably because not maintained due to The Situation (CV19) A swarm of big snails joyfully went about their business underneath us. It’s well worth a visit, plus it’s now free.
Trat
Trat offers wonderful scenery and a lot of calm hideaways for beach and nature lovers, with 52 large and small islands having long, white, sandy beaches and pristine coral reefs. The province is also known for its fruit-growing, fishing, and gem-mining industries. Trat is the main departure point for journeys to the popular Koh Chang island group, as well as for excursions to both gem markets and Cambodian border markets. Trat is a major ruby-mining region, similar to Chanthaburi, with the most famous gem market in Bo Rai District, around 31 miles (50 km) north of the Cambodian border. Trat has more marketplaces for its size than virtually any other Thai town, thanks to the booming Cambodian and seaside traffic. The weather in and around Trat is pleasant all year round, with mild temperatures. The north-eastern and southwestern winds affect the region, limiting sea travel to only the most popular islands, especially from May to October when the southwest monsoon blows. The western shore can be rainy and stormy during this time, making it difficult for ferries and smaller vessels to anchor. Koh Chang, on the other hand, is popular all year, and people may still visit the island quickly and safely using the regular boat routes.